Moncler used the first day of Milan Style Week in February to unveil a new creative model, doing away with the traditional autocracy in which one creative director oversees an entire brand. Remo Ruffini, the man credited with making Moncler a multibillion dollar house, announced The Genius Project.
Welcome to Moncler's oligarchy, with eight of fashion's biggest names taking the charge each month, presenting their own interpretation of Moncler's classic down-filled outerwear.
Meet the 8 designers and stylists taking over - the Moncler genii: Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, Moncler 1952, Grenoble produced in-house, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Kei Ninomiya of the Comme des Garçons stable, and skate-wear favourites, Hiroshi Fujiwara, and Palm Angels.
Here are the 4 heavy-hitters we'll be shopping first:
1) Simone Rocha
Needs no introduction, having made a name for herself with her Edwardian inspired style - delicate silks and smocking in outsized proportions that throw the whole thing off. Femininity that doesn't feel frou. Her collection for Moncler is a case-in-point. It's a portrait of a Lady (in the literary sense, like the Henry James novel of the same name, where old meets new - yes, I had to Google it to make sure too).
This is no twee take on the lady of the manor with patent black puffers layered over embroidered tulle. She'll likely get her hands dirty with what look like fur-lined marigolds. But among that there are still the delicate gossamers in soft peaches and pinks that feel quintessentially Simone Rocha.
2) Craig Green
Menswear designer, Craig Green has produced a collection that sees classic silhouettes abstracted and blown up to Michelin Man proportions. It's menswear, but like the trailing matelassé jackets from his own line (that he began producing in smaller sizes for women due to popular demand), there's no doubt female fans will be queuing to add pieces to their own wardrobes. If it's good enough for Kendrick Lamar, then it's good enough for us to buy into.
3) Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director of Valentino
Creative director of Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli, translated the regal beauty of Valentino into monastic A-line capes and capelets in papal purples and cardinal reds. It's purist in the sense that Piccioli sought to extract the very essence, in his own words, of Moncler's classics - so he focussed on the basic principle of down-filled quilting.
The setting for his collection was equally stripped back, shown in a church-like chamber with concrete walls. But the Crayola bright gilets and pastel-coloured gloves matched the character infused in his work at Valentino, with it's alternative rock references (The Cure's Robert Smith inspired his AW18 men's show) among the romantic classicism for which the house is known.
4) Kei Ninomiya
Comme de Garçons alum, Kei Ninomiya, worked with nylon and leather for his all-black interpretation of Moncler's classic quilting. The collection, now available at Moncler and Dover Street Market, 'allowed me the opportunity to develop new techniques [with] down,' Ninomiya said. 'Progress always stems from the way things are made.'