A new day for Philosophy

An assured debut from Natalie Ratabesi

This season, for the first time since Alberta Ferretti founded Philosophy in 1994, there’s a new name on the marquee: Natalie Ratabesi.

Ferretti handpicked the Central Saint Martins-trained designer to ‘give Philosophy a more independent and autonomous vision’ in October 2012. After today’s show, it’s clear the brand couldn’t be in the hands of a more capable successor.

Ratabesi looked to the fashion-infallible ‘50s for a series of full-skirted silhouettes. Sweet, serene dresses and princess-seamed coats were good enough, but what made this collection interesting were the details. Like the narrow chiffon bands inset into the yoke of a red jumper, and the windows of chiffon lightening the poet sleeves on an otherwise simple cream dress -pure, airy romance.

Okay, it wasn’t always totally cohesive - a disco fairisle knit and an awkwardly proportioned apron jumper (long in the front and short in the back, a reverse of the NYFW high-low hem trend) come to mind. There was enough in there, though, that we’re eager to see where Ratabesi takes the brand next.

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